14.6.2020
During the coronavirus frenzy, when I, like everybody else, was vigorously
all travel plans were changed, I had the opportunity to visit my parents
on holiday at the Vranov Dam, and to get some fresh air in the area called Podyjí. After
visiting a half-empty Prague, this would be my second contribution in support of the Czech
tourism.
Vranov nad Dyjí Castle
On Saturday I loaded my bike on the train and set off with several changes in the direction of Šumná. There was a lockout in Jihlava and as expected, ČD did not disappoint. There was no transport of bicycles to the alternative bus connection. Fortunately, the situation was saved by an agile conductor who, despite the driver's protest, suggested that I put my bike in the stroller seat. The rest of the journey was without complications and I got off at noon in the village of Šumná. I get on my bike and the first few kilometres between this village and the Vranov Dam indicate that this is not going to be as flat as we are used to in the rest of South Moravia. After a happy reunion, I park my bike at the cottage and today's activity is narrowed down to a walk around the dam and an evening sitting by the barbecue.
River Dyje near Vranov Dam
Vranov Dam
15.6.2020
The weather symbolizes that yesterday's heat will probably not take place, but it looks like it will rain. Today's bike ride will be short, because we have to put my brother on the train home at 6:00 in Znojmo. The destination is Bítov Castle. From the Vranov Dam, a long climb starts, followed by a descent and so on and so on. The roads in South Moravia are pretty desperate and it's a real treat on a road bike. Sometimes even the suspension forks on the mountain bikes couldn't keep up. On the way to Bítov we pass the ruins of Cornštejn Castle. As a bonus we have a view of the meander of the river Dyje.
Meander of the Dyje River near Cornštejn Castle
From Cornštejn we have a steep descent to the river/dam. From the bridge in the valley you can see Cornštejn Castle again and Bítov Castle is also visible.
Ruins of Cornštejn Castle
What we have descended, we have to climb again when we find ourselves in the village of Bítov. There I buy a pet bottle of their beer in the First Fireman's Brewery and we continue about 2 km to Bítov. The specialty of this castle is the largest collection of stuffed dogs in the world.
Bítov Castle
Collection of stuffed dogs at Bítov Castle
Unfortunately, we don't have time to visit the castle and we hurry on. At the driveway to the castle there is the Rumburak Restaurant, which has two huge sculptures of ravens by the parking lot, representing Rumburak transformed into this animal.
Rumburak Restaurant
The following is again a journey up and down. We join the second lowest class road and it is in such a state that even Russian tanks could not pass on it. Patch next to patch laid in a rather haphazard manner. It looks quite abstract, but on a bike it's an ordeal. We arrive home, have lunch, get in the car and head towards Znojmo. In the meantime, it's getting pretty rainy. The goal is to explore the historic centre of the town, the biggest highlight being Masaryk Square, where the continuity of the historic buildings is broken by a shopping centre building that is totally out of place.
Znojmo - Masaryk Square
Znojmo - Town Hall Tower and Dyje Department Store
Znojmo - City vineyards
Znojmo - City vineyards and the valley of the river Dyje
Znojmo - Znojmo Dam
Mom buys two bottles of great Pálava at the Lahofer winery and then we walk a bit of the town walls with a view of St. Catherine's Rotunda and Znojmo Castle.
Znojmo - St. Catherine's Rotunda and Znojmo Castle
Znojmo
Time would not allow us more, because my brother's train was running and it was still raining heavily.
16.6.2020
Today, we're going to visit our Austrian neighbours and visit Hardegg Castle. The weather is again cloudy with a higher risk of precipitation. Today we drive from the dam down to Vranov to make the steep climb to Vranov Castle.
Vranov nad Dyjí Castle
At the village of Podmyce we split up. My parents are taking a shortcut to Felling and I have to take the road via Riegersburg, thinking that we will meet in Felling.
Surroundings of Podmyce
Šafov
The road here was flat without a single pothole, so a great stretch. I was curious how it would look like at the border, but there were only two soldiers sitting there, not checking anyone. In Felling, we climbed another hill to then take a steep descent down the valley of the Thaya to the village of Hardegg, home to the castle of the same name made famous in the Czech TV series Labyrinth.
Hardegg village
Hardegg Castle
Right at the arrival to the village we are welcomed by a sign written in Czech "We welcome you, we speak Czech". So we went to try it out. The sign didn't lie, we were served by a Czech waiter the whole time. They didn't take cards here, but there is no problem to pay in Czech Koruna. Loaded with soup and a double or even triple portion of schnitzel, we left a few dozen Euros lighter but fully fed. For Western Europe, the prices here were quite reasonable.
Austrian-style lunch
The castle was closed today, so we will see it only from the outside and return to the Czech side of the bank of the river Dyje, which forms the state border here.
Hrad Hardegg
After the river we will have to climb again. After about three kilometres, a turn-off with a view of Hardegg appears.
Hardegg
From the viewpoint we continue on until we come to the village of Čížov. In front of it is the only preserved original part of the Iron Curtain in the Czech Republic.
Čížov - Remnant of the Iron Curtain
We continue up and down the local bombed-out roads and after an hour ride at the Vranov Dam we end our cycling adventure. Tomorrow I have only the road to Znojmo and a train back to Mladá Boleslav via Breclav.
I was quite pleasantly surprised by the surroundings of Podyjí. Firstly, the beautiful landscape, but also the many different sights you can find here. What was less surprising was the local rolling landscape and the state of the local roads.
Useful links:
Chatová osada u lesa camp
Vranov nad Dyjí Castle
Bítov Castle
NP Podyjí
Hardegg Castle
