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3. day - Mukachevo

20.12.2015

In the morning we wake up again to the sound of bells. We have breakfast and take our classic route through Korzo, Svabská Street and Svoboda Street to the bus station from where we go to Mukachevo. Inside the spacious check-in hall there is an electronic board, so we already know that Mukachevo shuttles run every quarter of an hour. We buy our tickets (1 Euro/person) and go in search of our Maršrutka. We find it pretty quickly. We have a pensioner check our tickets and get on. We shorten the wait for departure by taking photos and then the pensioner takes the wheel and we set off.

On the bus


The drive to Mukachevo takes about an hour and mostly follows a 4-lane, barrier-lined road, which differs from western roads of this type in that it runs through villages and has pedestrian crossings in places. We also find that there is no regular stopping, so you just walk up to the bus stop or even outside it and wave to a passing Marshrutka, which will stop in a jiffy. Then you just say where you are going, give the driver a certain amount of money (without a receipt, of course) and settle down (if there is free).

Another thing that will catch our attention along the way, and not only along the way, is how natural gas is managed in Ukraine. Unlike here, where all the pipes are underground, here everything runs outside on the facades and across the gardens.

So we arrive at the main bus station, which is much bigger than Uzhhorod's, but not next to the train station, which is located elsewhere. We take a few photos, especially of the tankodrom at the station, and set off in search of the city centre. Since we know which way to go, plus or minus, we find it quite quickly. It's not even ten minutes from the bus station.

Mukachevo - Bus station


Mukachevo - Road to the city centre


The centre of Mukachevo consists of three streets forming a triangle. On these streets you can find everything important for tourists, such as the statue of the chimney sweep, the statue of Cyril and Methodius, all the important churches and the town hall, in front of which lies the monument to the fallen heroes of WWII.


Mukachevo - Peace Square


Mukachevo - City Hall


Mukachevo - monument to the liberators in front of the town hall


Afterwards we go to the local "Magazine" (food) to check the local assortment. We buy something to eat, vodka of course, and move on. We're back on the street with the chimney sweep and Cyril and Methodius when a side street where local artists are performing and quite a few people are crowding in catches our eye. We like the idea of walking through it, as it takes us to the Mukachevo market. We don't miss a tour of it, of course, and head straight for the large hall where an assortment of everything from toilet paper to exotic spices is sold. Probably what impresses us the most is the style in which meat is sold here (and not only here). It is beautifully displayed on an uncovered counter with no protection from the outside world. There is no question of it being in a refrigerated box, with a few exceptions. Simply the dream of every Eurounian food inspector. After the tour of the hall, we go outside and walk around to the round where the market continues. Fortunately, no more meat. Directly opposite the market is a modern shopping mall, which is like a fist in the eye here. Nevertheless, we go to explore that one too. Here we stumble upon the first shop ever to sell ushnkas. So my brother doesn't hesitate to buy one.

It's lunchtime, so let's go get a bite to eat. On the recommendation of a colleague at work, we're looking for a self-service eatery that's centrally located. Although it's a bit camouflaged, we find it quite easily, but unfortunately for us, it's packed. So we postpone lunch for a short while and go for another walk along Ilona Zrini Street, which should lead to Palanok Castle, a local landmark. However, we don't see any castle even after ten minutes of walking and thinking that we are not going the right way, we turn back and go to try the dining room again. Now we are more lucky and find a vacant seat. The advantage of these eateries is that you can see all the food on offer in front of you and they are also very cheap. I didn't even pay 2 Euro for borscht and pancakes covered in breadcrumbs and stuffed with meat and cheese and covered with some mushroom sauce. After lunch we have more Baltica beer (Russian brand, Ukrainian production) and although it's not too late, we decide to go back to the bus station and take the marshrutka to Uzhhorod. We choose such an early return because we don't know when the last bus leaves and we prefer to pack early.

Mukačevo - cesta zpět na autobusové nádraží


We buy our tickets, get in and leave in a few minutes. The shuttle is again quite empty, which changes the moment it leaves the station and immediately stops at the curb to pick up more people. This time it's standing still. I didn't find out the reason why this is so until my third trip to Ukraine, where it was explained to me that the fare at the station includes some sort of fare break, whereas beyond the station it doesn't, making the ticket cheaper.

Along the way, the marshrutka gradually gets more crowded and we head straight to our hotel after we get admitted to Uzhhorod. At the hotel we resort to a little rest before dinner, which we head out for in the evening. Tonight we'd like to try the recommended Irish pub, Egan, which is especially renowned for its young and handsome girl staff. Although the place is packed, we find a table with two seats, enjoying the local service, which, despite being handsome, is not quick. After a few minutes of waiting, we are given a menu and pick the only thing we understand, which is steak and beer. It has to be said that the steak, including the sides, was delicious. We have one more beer to add to the price of around a hundred crowns, throw in a decent tip and head back to the hotel. Here we have some more vodka and then we go to sleep. Tomorrow is the last one of this remarkable trip.


Useful links:

Timetable of Transcarpathian Shuttles
Hotel Atlant on Booking.com

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